UDK 391(=512.111)



Evolution of the women’s shirt of the Upper Chuvashs


Zakharova-Kulyeva N. I.



The Upper Chuvashs (Virjals), who live in the northern and north-western part of the Chuvash Republic, are divided into four subgroups: north-western (Sundyrskaya), Krasnochetaiskaya, middle (Vylo-Volzhskaya), south-eastern (Mezhtsivilskaya). Their formation is associated with the settlement of the people. Each subgroup has some differences reflected in the material culture, among other things. Based on the analysis of museum collections, different subtypes of women’s shirts of the Upper Chuvashs of the XVIII — the mid-XX century are considered in the article, as well as additions to the existing classifications are proposed and schemes of shirts are given. As a result, the author identified variants of undergarments differing in details of cut and ornament. It was concluded that not all subgroups of the Upper Chuvashs had a shirt with straight sides. Until the middle of the XIX century their women’s shirt also had beveled wedges and was decorated with shoulder patterns.


Keywords: the Upper Chuvashs, classification of shirts, patterns-shoulder straps, loop-shaped stripes


For citation: Zakharova-Kulyeva NI. Evolution of the women’s shirt of the Upper Chuvashs. Center and Periphery. 2023;18(2):65—74. EDN EQPOQE





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Information about the author:

Natalia I. Zakharova-Kulyeva, Senior Researcher at the Chuvash National Museum (32 Karl Marx Str., Cheboksary 420032, Russia); Postgraduate Student of Department of Archeology, Ethnography and Regional History of the I. N. Ulyanov Chuvash State University (15 Moskovsky Avenue, Cheboksary 428015, Russia), ORCID: https://orcid.org/0009-0003-6358-7777, nataliya_z@mail.ru


Conflict of interests: the author declares no conflict of interests.


The author has read and approved the final version of the manuscript.


The article was submitted 09.01.2023, approved after reviewing 27.02.2023, accepted for publication 07.03.2023.